By Craig Webb

Initiatives by two of the premier green certification schemes are pushing the green building movement into a new, more complicated phase–a phase that could bring new opportunities for LBM dealers.

The changes under way at the Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) Energy Star program for homes and in place at the U.S. Green Building Council’s (USGBC) LEED for commercial buildings reject the notion that one can turn a structure green simply by installing whiz-bang products or by piling on the insulation. Energy Star’s proposed third-generation guidelines for qualified homes, to take effect in 2011, demand builders subscribe to energy-efficient framing methods and show that the insulation and HVAC systems they’ve installed were put in properly.

Meanwhile, shifting emphasis from promised to actual benefits, LEED-certified commercial buildings as of July 1 have to submit energy data to achieve and maintain certification. (USGBC has no plans to do the same for LEED’s residential program.)

These changes spring from a growing awareness that America’s builders too often put up structures that waste resources and/or fail to take full advantage of the green products used. EPA officials fill their PowerPoint presentations with slides showing homes where framers hammer in twice as many studs as needed, insulation installers fail to fill all the crevices in a wall, and HVAC crews put in ducts that double back on themselves, crimping the air flow.

“Despite increases in the ‘nameplate’ or ‘nominal’ performance indices of insulation levels and HVAC equipment, poor quality installation and commissioning often occurs, which does not allow the full potential of those nameplate values to be achieved,” states an EPA document justifying the need for a third-generation Energy Star code.

USGBC is acting for similar reasons. A 2008 study it commissioned found that, of 121 commercial buildings LEED-certified under its new construction program, 40% didn’t meet their energy target. What’s worse, 20% used more energy than local code requirements.

“If LEED-certified buildings are to live up to their expectations, performance cannot be based on design intent,” wrote Mark Stetz, an energy engineer and consultant on verifying building performance. “(E)nergy, cost, water, and carbon reductions need to be demonstrated in practice if LEED is to maintain credibility.”

Energy Star’s attack on construction problems features detailed inspection checklists and more third-party verification. Contractors seeking the Energy Star seal must frame the houses using one of four designated approaches: optimum value engineered framing, insulated sheathing, structural insulated panels, or insulated concrete forms. Inspectors will be required to check whether insulation has been installed behind showers and tubs, in attic slopes and walls, above garages, and behind staircases. In addition, window and door openings must be fully flashed.

“Even though quality control of installation and commissioning is often embodied in writing in residential energy codes, real-world observations indicate that it is often not being enforced or adequately inspected for,” EPA says as justification for the new checklists.

While supporting Energy Star in general, NAHB and other groups dislike EPA’s idea. NAHB argued the new checklists are onerous, require skills many energy raters lack, and make homes more expensive. Citing EPA and other groups’ findings, NAHB estimated compliance would increase construction costs by nearly $5,000. “Bear in mind that 246,000 U.S. households are priced out of the market when the cost of a median-priced new home is increased by just $1,000,” NAHB wrote.

Should EPA prevail, it appears dealers will be well-positioned to help builders. A ProSales survey this spring found that roughly 44% of the dealers responding already provide information about green construction. Dealers regularly are asked to explain green certification requirements and help builders sort through the choices they must make to win Energy Star, LEED, or other points. Energy Star’s stepped-up emphasis on building better should only help increase the demand on dealers’ expertise.

–Craig Webb

By Nigel F. Maynard

Let’s forget the green movement for a moment. The topic has exploded in the mainstream, but that growth has resulted in false claims and an unbelievable amount of greenwashing. The definition of what makes something green is subjective, making the issue as thorny as it is puzzling to consumers and builders alike.

So let’s talk in real terms. According to the EPA, the average household spends about $2,200 on energy bills every year. People in drafty old houses with single-pane windows, under-insulated walls, and prehistoric appliances are likely paying more. Simply put, saving energy will save people money.

Unlike green, energy efficiency is something that home buyers can understand, process, and wrap their heads around. As evidence of this, window replacement contractors say they have seen a marked increase in business since President Obama signed the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009, which included provisions for homeowners to receive a tax credit of up to $1,500 for energy efficiency improvements. The popularity of the Cash for Clunkers CARS program also highlights this trend.

For this reason, builders should think of energy efficiency as a prime construction strategy.

Where do you begin? Right here. In this story, you will find 10 cost-effective strategies that will help you build a better home–and one with features that your sales staff can quantify to potential buyers. There are other, more sophisticated strategies, of course, but these tried and true practices will give you best bang for your buck.

1. Orient the house for energy efficiency.

Before you even think about Energy Star appliances, recycled-content products, or whiz-bang technologies, the first thing anyone building a house needs to do is position the structure for maximum benefit. It is, perhaps, the most important decision you’ll make. This is general knowledge but still so few builders actually do it—or are unable because of how subdivisions are typically planned.

Busiest builders: Centex Homes, D.R. Horton, Beazer Homes, Bill Clark Homes, Pasquinelli/Portrait Homes

Why? The right site orientation is where energy savings begin. In addition to beneficial daylight, a properly sited house will avoid solar heat gain and require less mechanical cooling in the summer. It may also take advantage of the prevailing breezes for free cooling. “East west [orientation] is best,” says architect Ed Binkley, of Ed Binkley Design in Oviedo, Fla. The north side provides the best light, southern exposure is easy to control with shading, and the east and west should have less glass.

2. Place windows appropriately

Once the house is properly sited on the lot, the last thing you want to do is negate it with large windows in the wrong places. Let your geographical region and climate determine placement. ”If you want morning sunlight to spray across your breakfast table, your breakfast room window should face east,” Don Vandervort writes on his Website www.hometips.com. “Light from the south is bright and direct; solar houses are oriented to the south for maximum heat gain. South-facing windows are often located beneath eaves or roof overhangs to block the high, intense summer sun, but allow in the warmth of the lower winter sun.”

Why: The right window placement will mean the difference between unwanted heat gain and lack of cool, flattering daylight. Proper window placement will facilitate cross breezes and ventilation—provided the house was oriented correctly in the first place. Moreover, architect Erla Dögg Ingjaldsdóttir of Santa Monica, Calif.-based MINARC, says low window openings on a house let in cool air and high window placement allows hot air to escape.

Cost: Free.

3. Install a radiant barrier.

Your house is sited properly and windows are in the right places, but now it’s time to keep out the sun’s heat. A radiant barrier installed on the roof deck or (in some cases, the attic floor) will help. A structural panel with a thin sheet of reflective material—usually aluminum—on one side, a radiant barrier is used as regular sheathing (with the reflective side down).

Why: In warm climates or hot climates, a radiant barrier helps reduce summer heat gain, allowing air conditioners to work less, thereby saving money. The U.S. Department of Energy’s (DOE) Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy says a radiant barrier also can “reduce indoor heat losses through the ceiling in the winter.” Some manufacturers claim the products prevent up to 97% of the radiant heat in the panel from entering the attic.

Cost: $500 for a 2,000 square foot home.

4. Properly air-seal the structure.

One of the most important factors in a house is preventing unwanted air infiltration. Builders can do this with an aggressive campaign to caulk all cracks and seal all pipes penetrating the building envelope, with diligent housewrap application, or with spray foam insulation or blow-in cellulose. “Number one with a bullet for us is rigorous air sealing,” says Jesse Thompson, with Kaplan Thompson Architects in Portland, Maine.

Why: According to DOE’s Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy, preventing random air movement through building cavities helps prevent air leakage, which can account for 30% or more of a home’s heating and cooling costs. Architect C. Joseph Vigil, president of VaST Architecture in Boulder, Colo., recommends “having a blower door test done and then based on the results insulating and caulking all gaps and cracks to minimize the amount of natural air changes per hour that occur.” Moreover, Thompson says his firm is “getting builders to commit to blower-door testing during construction, especially pre-insulation, when the walls are open and problems can be caught easily.” Air sealing also will increase the effectiveness of the insulation.

Cost: $200 to $600.

5. Insulate. Insulate. Insulate.

Siding and roofing will protect the house from bulk rain, and sealing stops the air flow, but a properly insulated house will keep its inhabitants comfortable. “A good, tight, well-insulated shell is about 70% of the solution,” Binkley says.

Why: “To maintain comfort, the heat lost in the winter must be replaced by your heating system and the heat gained in the summer must be removed by your cooling system,” the DOE says. “Properly insulating your home will decrease this heat flow by providing an effective resistance to the flow of heat.” Still, the amount of insulation or R-value you’ll need depends on your climate, type of heating and cooling system, and the section of the house you plan to insulate, according to the DOE. The type of insulation is a matter of preference. Some architects use foam because it (the closed-cell version) acts as a moisture barrier and air barrier and because it fills all nooks and crannies. Other pros use blow-in cellulose, while most builders stick with fiberglass batts. Either way, the concept is the same: the insulation must be installed properly to touch all six sides of the wall cavity. “Some types of insulation—such as foam board and dense-packed cellulose insulation—can be effective at reducing air flow as well as heat flow,”according to the government’s Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy. “However, the most common type of insulation—fiberglass—does not stop air leakage. In older homes, dirty fiberglass insulation is a telltale sign of air movement (it collects dirt like a filter).”

Cost: Between 25 cents to 90 cents per square foot (fiberglass). Foam costs about three to four times more.

6. Remember the attic.

It’s tempting to overlook this part of the house, but the attic is also an important part of an energy efficiency strategy. Simply put, “Properly insulating and air sealing your attic will help reduce your energy bills,” reminds the Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy.

Why: “The attic is critical,” says Robert Jordan, president of the insulation company Dr. Warm in Upton, Mass. “Hot air rises and wants to go higher and escape from the house. Doing the attic is most important.” If the attic is vented, make sure to seal all attic-to-home air leaks because most insulation does not stop airflow, DOE says. This may not be necessary if you’re using spray foam in an unvented attic.

Cost: About $3.50 per square foot for 9 inches of open-cell foam. Cheaper options are available.

7. Install a properly sized efficient furnace or boiler.

The last thing you want to do after being diligent about the other energy efficiency strategies is blow it by installing an inefficient HVAC system. In 2006, DOE mandated that manufacturers cannot import or produce air conditioners with anything less than a 13 SEER. Shoot for ratings above that. Vigil adds that builders should avoid any mechanical system that is less than 90% efficient.

Why: Installing the most efficient system will result in direct saving because heating and cooling a house represents the costlier part of maintaining it.

Cost: $1,000 to $5,000. Plus, if the house is sealed properly and insulated well, the physical size of the system can be reduced.

8. Choose an efficient hot water system.

In most houses, the refrigerator and the hot water tank are the two major appliances that are always on—always! In fact, water heating is the third-largest expense in the home after air conditioning and major appliances and accounts for 14% to 25% of a home’s operating costs.

Why: As of this year, EPA and DOE, issued criteria that water heaters must meet to obtain the Energy Star label. The agency says the standards are expected to save American consumers about $780 million in utility costs by the fifth year of the standard’s use. Though Energy Star covers a variety of tank types, different architects have their preference. Vigil prefers tankless systems that heat only when they’re needed, while Binkley prefers a solar system. Traditional storage tanks can also be efficient.

Cost: $300 and up for traditional storage units (uninstalled); from $800 for tankless (uninstalled); and $2,500 to $3,500 for solar (installed).

9. Choose fluorescent-friendly fixtures.

The Energy Star program says lighting in the average U.S. home accounts for about 20% of its electric bill. Switching out an incandescent lamp for a medium-based compact fluorescent bulb (CFL) will help will save about $30 over its lifetime and pay for itself in about six months. But there is a better way: Use fixtures designed for pin-based fluorescent bulbs instead.

Why: Though medium-based CFLs use 75% less energy and lasts about 10 times longer than incandescent bulbs, there is a problem. “If they are put into incandescent fixtures they need to be left on for longer periods,” says Binkley. “Fluorescents are not made to be switched off and on for short periods, they will burn out fast.” Sea Gull Lighting says an Energy Star fixture that is designed for a pin-based fluorescent bulb not only looks better, but the quality of light and energy performance is better as well.

Cost: Starts at $40 for a ceiling fixture.

10. Install Energy Star appliances.

No builder interested in efficiency should be installing anything less than Energy Star rated appliances. Period.

Why: Energy Star models exceed federal standards for energy and water use and are more efficient than older ones, thereby helping homeowners save money on their utility bills. Forget baseline models that meet the minimum standards and consult with www.energystar.gov for models that go beyond. For example, some dishwashers exceed government standards by 50%, while others beat them by 147%.

Cost: Varies.

Nigel Maynard is senior editor, products, at BUILDER Magazine.

A survey conducted by the National Association of Homebuilders found that nearly three-fourths of homeowners said that energy-efficient features would most influence their decision to purchase a home. Of the more than 2,300 survey respondents, 51 percent said they would pay $5,000 to $11,000 more upfront for a new house if they could save on their utility bills, while 16 percent said they would pay more than $11,000.

While most homeowners understand that installing compact fluorescent light bulbs or purchasing ENERGY STAR® rated appliances will decrease their monthly energy expenses, few recognize the impact that the building envelope has on a home’s overall energy efficiency. As the barrier between a home’s indoor and outdoor environments, the building envelope can significantly cut a home’s energy requirements. Reducing energy usage through the building envelope can be accomplished in several ways: increasing insulation; incorporating low-E windows; weather stripping; radiant barriers in hot climates and preventing air infiltration, to name a few.

Because air infiltration can lead to problems including water leaks, condensation, mold and damage to mechanical systems, it needs to be addressed outright. Research has shown that up to 35 percent of the heat loss in a home can be attributed to air infiltration. If a building envelope cannot withstand air infiltration, the effectiveness of additional energy efficient measures becomes futile. The first envelope component to focus on is the wall system.

According to the North American Insulation Manufacturer’s Association (NAIMA), “Most of the air that passes through the exterior wall assembly of a home does so by way of seams and interfaces between rigid framing and sheathing components….” However, there are wall panels that work to prevent air infiltration.

Recently, a series of air infiltration tests were conducted for Norbord Inc. by the National Association of Home Builders’ (NAHB) Research Center, Inc. Designed to compare the effect of sheathing with conventional 4’ x 8’ panels to Norbord’s TallWall® OSB panels, the tests revealed that walls over eight feet tall built with TallWall show substantial reduction in air infiltration compared to walls sheathed with conventional 4’ x 8’ panels installed horizontally. In fact, in every test situation, TallWall panels consistently reduced air infiltration up to 60 percent compared with conventional panels using the same wall construction.

Norbord’s innovative TallWall is manufactured in 9- and 10-foot lengths. Designed to cover walls from the plate to the floor joists, TallWall OSB wall sheathing not only reduces air infiltration, but it can help lower labor costs, reduce waste, requires no blocking or filler strips, eliminates horizontal joints and increases wall strength by up to 38 percent when panels overlap the joist area.

As people look to purchase a new home, or retrofit their existing home, before buying ENERGY STAR-rated appliances, compact fluorescent light bulbs or new HVAC systems, they should carefully examine their home’s building envelope. By preventing air infiltration throughout the building envelope, homes are stronger and more energy efficient homes. This is a key step toward advancing energy security and one that we can all take.

For more information on Norbord’s Air Infiltration Testing, visit www.tallwallosb.com. To learn more about Norbord, please go to www.norbord.com.

A new national study of green consumers contradicts several long-held stereotypes about them: The environment is not their top concern, their kids are not influencing them to be green, and while many know what they should do to save the planet, they often don’t do it. As a result, marketing messages aimed at this group often fall on deaf ears, says Suzanne Shelton, whose Knoxville, Tenn., firm, Shelton Group, conducted the study.

“Most green advertising is created as if there’s one pool of green consumers and they’re all motivated by ‘Save the planet!’ messaging,” Shelton says. “We need a revolution in this thinking. Not all green consumers are the same, they’re not all motivated by the same messages, and they’re not all inclined to buy only green products.”

Released Aug. 21, the Green Living Pulse study polled 1,007 U.S. consumers who at least occasionally buy green products (77% of the population) and found there is no typical “green consumer.” The study discovered six myths about this group:

Myth 1: Green consumers’ top concern is the environment.

When asked to identify their top concern, the economy, by far, is No. 1 (with 59% calling it their top concern) and the environment falls far behind (8%).

Myth 2: Green consumers’ main motivation when reducing their energy use is to save the planet.

When asked the most important reason to reduce energy consumption, 73% chose “to reduce my bills/control costs” and only 26% chose “to lessen my impact on the environment.”

Myth 3: Green consumers are all-knowledgeable about environmental issues.

For example, the survey asked, “From what you have read or heard about CO2 (carbon dioxide), please place a check beside any of the following statements you think are true.” Almost half (49%) chose the incorrect answer, “It depletes the ozone layer.”

Myth 4: Green consumers fall into a simple demographic profile.

While the study detected some demographic tendencies, it found that green consumers aren’t easily defined by their age, income, or ethnicity.

Myth 5: Children play a big part in influencing their parents to be green.

Only 20% of respondents with children said their kids encouraged them to be greener by, for example, promoting recycling and turning off lights.

Myth 6: If buyers just knew the facts they’d make greener choices.

The study showed that knowledge does not always lead to eco-conscious behavior. Individuals who answered all of the science-related questions correctly did report participating in a significantly higher average number of green activities, such as driving a fuel-efficient car or lowering their thermostat during the winter; however, the 25- to 34-year-old age group consistently answered the questions correctly, yet, on average, this group’s green activity levels were lower than those of older respondents. “Because green consumers are being stereotyped, and these myths we tested are embraced by marketers as facts, many green messages are falling on deaf ears,” Shelton says. “If these messages were better targeted, more people would be buying green products, conserving electricity, and doing more to save the planet.”

Jennifer Goodman is Senior Editor Online for EcoHome.

By Nigel F. Maynard

Let’s forget the green movement for a moment. The topic has exploded in the mainstream, but that growth has resulted in false claims and an unbelievable amount of greenwashing. The definition of what makes something green is subjective, making the issue as thorny as it is puzzling to consumers and builders alike.

So let’s talk in real terms. According to the EPA, the average household spends about $2,200 on energy bills every year. People in drafty old houses with single-pane windows, under-insulated walls, and prehistoric appliances are likely paying more. Simply put, saving energy will save people money.

Unlike green, energy efficiency is something that home buyers can understand, process, and wrap their heads around. As evidence of this, window replacement contractors say they have seen a marked increase in business since President Obama signed the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009, which included provisions for homeowners to receive a tax credit of up to $1,500 for energy efficiency improvements. The popularity of the Cash for Clunkers CARS program also highlights this trend.

For this reason, builders should think of energy efficiency as a prime construction strategy.

Where do you begin? Right here. In this story, you will find 10 cost-effective strategies that will help you build a better home–and one with features that your sales staff can quantify to potential buyers. There are other, more sophisticated strategies, of course, but these tried and true practices will give you best bang for your buck.

1. Orient the house for energy efficiency.

Before you even think about Energy Star appliances, recycled-content products, or whiz-bang technologies, the first thing anyone building a house needs to do is position the structure for maximum benefit. It is, perhaps, the most important decision you’ll make. This is general knowledge but still so few builders actually do it—or are unable because of how subdivisions are typically planned.

Busiest builders: Centex Homes, D.R. Horton, Beazer Homes, Bill Clark Homes, Pasquinelli/Portrait Homes

Why? The right site orientation is where energy savings begin. In addition to beneficial daylight, a properly sited house will avoid solar heat gain and require less mechanical cooling in the summer. It may also take advantage of the prevailing breezes for free cooling. “East west [orientation] is best,” says architect Ed Binkley, of Ed Binkley Design in Oviedo, Fla. The north side provides the best light, southern exposure is easy to control with shading, and the east and west should have less glass.

2. Place windows appropriately

Once the house is properly sited on the lot, the last thing you want to do is negate it with large windows in the wrong places. Let your geographical region and climate determine placement. ”If you want morning sunlight to spray across your breakfast table, your breakfast room window should face east,” Don Vandervort writes on his Website www.hometips.com. “Light from the south is bright and direct; solar houses are oriented to the south for maximum heat gain. South-facing windows are often located beneath eaves or roof overhangs to block the high, intense summer sun, but allow in the warmth of the lower winter sun.”

Why: The right window placement will mean the difference between unwanted heat gain and lack of cool, flattering daylight. Proper window placement will facilitate cross breezes and ventilation—provided the house was oriented correctly in the first place. Moreover, architect Erla Dögg Ingjaldsdóttir of Santa Monica, Calif.-based MINARC, says low window openings on a house let in cool air and high window placement allows hot air to escape.

Cost: Free.

3. Install a radiant barrier.

Your house is sited properly and windows are in the right places, but now it’s time to keep out the sun’s heat. A radiant barrier installed on the roof deck or (in some cases, the attic floor) will help. A structural panel with a thin sheet of reflective material—usually aluminum—on one side, a radiant barrier is used as regular sheathing (with the reflective side down).

Why: In warm climates or hot climates, a radiant barrier helps reduce summer heat gain, allowing air conditioners to work less, thereby saving money. The U.S. Department of Energy’s (DOE) Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy says a radiant barrier also can “reduce indoor heat losses through the ceiling in the winter.” Some manufacturers claim the products prevent up to 97% of the radiant heat in the panel from entering the attic.

Cost: $500 for a 2,000 square foot home.

4. Properly air-seal the structure.

One of the most important factors in a house is preventing unwanted air infiltration. Builders can do this with an aggressive campaign to caulk all cracks and seal all pipes penetrating the building envelope, with diligent housewrap application, or with spray foam insulation or blow-in cellulose. “Number one with a bullet for us is rigorous air sealing,” says Jesse Thompson, with Kaplan Thompson Architects in Portland, Maine.

Why: According to DOE’s Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy, preventing random air movement through building cavities helps prevent air leakage, which can account for 30% or more of a home’s heating and cooling costs. Architect C. Joseph Vigil, president of VaST Architecture in Boulder, Colo., recommends “having a blower door test done and then based on the results insulating and caulking all gaps and cracks to minimize the amount of natural air changes per hour that occur.” Moreover, Thompson says his firm is “getting builders to commit to blower-door testing during construction, especially pre-insulation, when the walls are open and problems can be caught easily.” Air sealing also will increase the effectiveness of the insulation.

Cost: $200 to $600.

5. Insulate. Insulate. Insulate.

Siding and roofing will protect the house from bulk rain, and sealing stops the air flow, but a properly insulated house will keep its inhabitants comfortable. “A good, tight, well-insulated shell is about 70% of the solution,” Binkley says.

Why: “To maintain comfort, the heat lost in the winter must be replaced by your heating system and the heat gained in the summer must be removed by your cooling system,” the DOE says. “Properly insulating your home will decrease this heat flow by providing an effective resistance to the flow of heat.” Still, the amount of insulation or R-value you’ll need depends on your climate, type of heating and cooling system, and the section of the house you plan to insulate, according to the DOE. The type of insulation is a matter of preference. Some architects use foam because it (the closed-cell version) acts as a moisture barrier and air barrier and because it fills all nooks and crannies. Other pros use blow-in cellulose, while most builders stick with fiberglass batts. Either way, the concept is the same: the insulation must be installed properly to touch all six sides of the wall cavity. “Some types of insulation—such as foam board and dense-packed cellulose insulation—can be effective at reducing air flow as well as heat flow,”according to the government’s Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy. “However, the most common type of insulation—fiberglass—does not stop air leakage. In older homes, dirty fiberglass insulation is a telltale sign of air movement (it collects dirt like a filter).”

Cost: Between 25 cents to 90 cents per square foot (fiberglass). Foam costs about three to four times more.

6. Remember the attic.

It’s tempting to overlook this part of the house, but the attic is also an important part of an energy efficiency strategy. Simply put, “Properly insulating and air sealing your attic will help reduce your energy bills,” reminds the Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy.

Why: “The attic is critical,” says Robert Jordan, president of the insulation company Dr. Warm in Upton, Mass. “Hot air rises and wants to go higher and escape from the house. Doing the attic is most important.” If the attic is vented, make sure to seal all attic-to-home air leaks because most insulation does not stop airflow, DOE says. This may not be necessary if you’re using spray foam in an unvented attic.

Cost: About $3.50 per square foot for 9 inches of open-cell foam. Cheaper options are available.

7. Install a properly sized efficient furnace or boiler.

The last thing you want to do after being diligent about the other energy efficiency strategies is blow it by installing an inefficient HVAC system. In 2006, DOE mandated that manufacturers cannot import or produce air conditioners with anything less than a 13 SEER. Shoot for ratings above that. Vigil adds that builders should avoid any mechanical system that is less than 90% efficient.

Why: Installing the most efficient system will result in direct saving because heating and cooling a house represents the costlier part of maintaining it.

Cost: $1,000 to $5,000. Plus, if the house is sealed properly and insulated well, the physical size of the system can be reduced.

8. Choose an efficient hot water system.

In most houses, the refrigerator and the hot water tank are the two major appliances that are always on—always! In fact, water heating is the third-largest expense in the home after air conditioning and major appliances and accounts for 14% to 25% of a home’s operating costs.

Why: As of this year, EPA and DOE, issued criteria that water heaters must meet to obtain the Energy Star label. The agency says the standards are expected to save American consumers about $780 million in utility costs by the fifth year of the standard’s use. Though Energy Star covers a variety of tank types, different architects have their preference. Vigil prefers tankless systems that heat only when they’re needed, while Binkley prefers a solar system. Traditional storage tanks can also be efficient.

Cost: $300 and up for traditional storage units (uninstalled); from $800 for tankless (uninstalled); and $2,500 to $3,500 for solar (installed).

9. Choose fluorescent-friendly fixtures.

The Energy Star program says lighting in the average U.S. home accounts for about 20% of its electric bill. Switching out an incandescent lamp for a medium-based compact fluorescent bulb (CFL) will help will save about $30 over its lifetime and pay for itself in about six months. But there is a better way: Use fixtures designed for pin-based fluorescent bulbs instead.

Why: Though medium-based CFLs use 75% less energy and lasts about 10 times longer than incandescent bulbs, there is a problem. “If they are put into incandescent fixtures they need to be left on for longer periods,” says Binkley. “Fluorescents are not made to be switched off and on for short periods, they will burn out fast.” Sea Gull Lighting says an Energy Star fixture that is designed for a pin-based fluorescent bulb not only looks better, but the quality of light and energy performance is better as well.

Cost: Starts at $40 for a ceiling fixture.

10. Install Energy Star appliances.

No builder interested in efficiency should be installing anything less than Energy Star rated appliances. Period.

Why: Energy Star models exceed federal standards for energy and water use and are more efficient than older ones, thereby helping homeowners save money on their utility bills. Forget baseline models that meet the minimum standards and consult with www.energystar.gov for models that go beyond. For example, some dishwashers exceed government standards by 50%, while others beat them by 147%.

Cost: Varies.

By Craig Webb

The U.S. economy is emerging from its worst period since the 1930s, but housing’s recovery will trail other industries and its rebound depends on skirting several potential pitfalls, a Mercer University economics professor told Florida building material dealers.

“I believe this economy has started to come out of this recession,” Roger Tutterow said Thursday at the Florida Building Material Association’s Main Event meeting in Kissimmee, Fla. He predicted the revival will be well under way in six to nine months, at which point the gross domestic product will be increasing at about a 2.5% annual rate.

Energy and food price hikes have moderated, inventories are shrinking, money is moving back into the credit markets, and residential real estate prices have “bottomed out … forming a basis for recovery,” he said. Added encouragement comes from the Conference Board’s index of Leading Economic Indicators, which has turned positive and now points toward an annualized growth rate of 4%.

But Tutterow also presented several reasons why the housing industry won’t be leading the economy out of this recession:

• The 2.5% growth rate that Tutterow forecasts for mid-2010 trails the typical annual recovery rate of 3.5% to 4%.
• Payrolls won’t rise again until well into 2010. That matters because job growth typically spurs household formation, which in turn encourages new-home construction.
• The improvement in credit markets, such as for commercial paper, isn’t being shared by the commercial and industrial lending market. Regulators continue to tell banks to write down the values of loans and to toughen standards, Tutterow said. As a result, he said, “Half of the credit crunch is behind us. But the half that’s within the banking side is still there.”
• Hopes for a recovery in housing could be dashed–or at least delayed–by an unexpected rise in foreclosures, by banks’ decision to dump recovered properties onto the market, or by a premature rush by builders to start putting up new homes.

Meanwhile, the commercial construction market probably will need until 2012 before vacancy rates fall again. “We’re in a shutdown mode, allowing the economy to catch up,” the Atlanta-based professor said.

Reprinted from ProSales Magazine: August, 2009

By Katy Tomasulo

Las Vegas, Jan. 22 – The number of products advertised as “green” has multiplied at a record pace in recent years. But while some are as eco-friendly as they say, others are dripping in greenwashing. So how can pros ensure they are selecting green building products that not only live up to their sustainability claims but also offer the expected performance of the products they are replacing? The key is good old-fashioned research, according to a panel of legal experts during the workshop “Green Building Products: Can They Perform as Promised?” at the International Builders’ Show.

The panelists—Sheila Fix of Wood, Smith, Henning & Berman, LLP in Glendale, Calif.;
Loly Tor of K&L Gates in Newark, N.J.; Peter E. Nelson of Simpson Gumpertz & Heger Inc./Consulting Engineers in Waltham, Mass.; and Patrick J. Perrone of K&L Gates—outlined a three-part plan for analyzing and selecting green products, and for protecting your business in the process.

“You will be inundated with green product advertising,” said moderator Perrone. “You need to have an approach to selecting those products.”

EVALUATING PRODUCT CLAIMS

Part 1: Will It Perform?

The first step is to determine if the green product will perform as promised and what installation changes you need to make to accommodate its unique characteristics. To avoid a performance problem, said Nelson, you need an approach to avoid product failure. Understand the nuances of the product’s installation versus the product it is replacing and if different or additional steps need to be taken.

To determine product performance, ask the following questions:

• What is it supposed to do?
• How does the green product compare to the traditional version?
• Does the product meet recognized industry standards, such as building codes, that tell you how to apply it?
• Does it have third-party certification?
• Can large quantities be delivered on a timely basis?
• How long will the product last? Request test data and consider conducting your own testing under the conditions you will be using the product in.
• How difficult is the product to repair?
• Are there installation issues that need to be considered? For example, efficient windows are great, but not if you don’t flash them properly.
• Are there any maintenance requirements to ensure long-term performance?
• How will the product work in a wet environment or if it gets wet?
• What effect will the product have on the home system?
• What is the product’s performance history? Ask about claims history and to speak with other pros who have used the product.

Not every product will meet every criterion. The key is to weigh all of the data and avoid items with too many strikes against them, or that appear risky or unproven.

Part 2: Is It Green?

Like in part one, Tor recommends exploring the following areas to determine if the product lives up to its green marketing claims:

• Ask how the product affects the environment. Weigh energy efficiency, carbon footprint, water efficiency, material optimization, and public health. Bamboo, for example, is rapidly renewable but has to be shipped long distances. Wood takes much longer to grow, but is available locally in many cases.
• Look for applicable green standards that you can measure the product against. Look to green labels such as Greenguard, Greenspec, SFI, FSC, Energy Star, and others for third-party validation. (But remember that not all labels are the same. Look for programs that identify specific criteria; are objective and consensus based; and are stringent so that only the best products can achieve their label.)
• Beware of greenwashing. Proceed with caution if manufacturers cannot support green claims or if they focus on only one attribute. Sticking the word “eco” in front of a brand does not make it green.
• Ask if a Life Cycle Analysis has been conducted. Compare the LCA against that of similar products.
• Consult reliable databases of environmentally preferred products. These include the EPA, EcoLogo, and GreenSeal.

Asking questions and obtaining data can help you better evaluate each new product you’re considering. “There’s no magic formula,” Perrone said. “What we’re trying to convey is a practical, common-sense approach to evaluate products that are out there.”

PROTECTING YOUR BUSINESS

Once you’ve determined a product lives up to its green claims and will perform as needed, it’s important to take steps to limit your liability. Fix and Tor offered the following recommendations:

Pre-construction considerations with manufacturers:

• Work only with reputable companies that have proven track records.
• Obtain an extended warranty and look at it closely. Seek warranties that cover replacement AND cost of replacement (labor).
• Avoid overly restrictive limitation of damage or limitation of remedy provisions.
• Seek permission to assign and pass all warranties on to the homeowner. This is critical; otherwise, the owner will look to the builder to remedy a failure.
• Seek defense and indemnity provisions for third-party claims involving defects.
• Seek additional insured coverage under manufacturer’s policy. And be sure to get a copy of the endorsement and certificate of insurance.
• Ask if manufacturer provides instructions/training concerning proper installation.
• Pre-construction considerations with subcontractors:
• Seek warranty regarding ability to properly install the green product. Ensure they are familiar with it and keep an open dialogue. Consider third-party testing of assemblies.
• Ask for references regarding prior experience with installation of that product; follow through on checking references.
• Seek defense and indemnity provisions for third-party claims arising from improper installation.
• Seek additional insured status for installation problems causing damage to “other property.” Get a copy of the insurance certificate and endorsement.

Post-construction considerations with homeowners:

• Avoid misrepresentation of claims and be careful about what you say. Tor recommended:
  • Avoid vague references to green and health benefits
  • Avoid inflated or unsubstantiated claims
  • Don’t promise specific energy savings
  • Train employees, particularly sales, about what they can and can’t say
• Look to FTC Green Guides for guidelines on what you can and can’t say. The FTC is currently considering changes to add claims for green products.
• Let others speak for you. For your new homes, seek third-party certification such as through LEED for Homes, NAHB Model Green Home Building guidelines, and Energy Star.
• Pass along the manufacturer’s warranties. Make them a part of the move-in package. In the contract, say you assign warranties to the purchaser.
• Define what you mean by green in your contract documents.
• Limit liability by contract.
• Provide homeowners with materials on maintaining their products.

Reprinted from ECOHOME Magazine January 2009.

By Chris Wood

The competing lumber certification bodies – which certify working forest acreage, as well as the paper, pulp, fiber, and solid lumber goods derived from such forests – have always had a contentious relationship. But things are heating up in a brand battle that also includes certification standards under the American Tree Farm System (ATFS), the Canadian Standards Association (CSA), and the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC).

Once a hard-to-find, premium-ticket item, certified lumber has become commonplace on the racks of building material retailers. Its use in the manufacture of flooring, cabinetry, doors, windows, and siding also is on the rise.

Simply put, all certified lumber carries a promise that it comes from a sustainably managed forest. Regardless of the acronym, the message is the same: Rest easy, because we didn’t clear-cut the rainforests, destroy animal habitats, or otherwise screw up the environment in the making of this product.

In the ever-greening global economy, that promise carries saleable weight, say certifiers and product distributors, and certified lumber consequently has enjoyed a surge in demand. Certified lumber also qualifies builders for points under various green building programs. As certified lumber commands more market share through these programs and increased awareness, certifiers are in a no-holds-barred wrestling match to get their brand identity front and center.

Cola Wars

The competition for visibility is an interesting one, considering that, unpromoted, certified lumber is typically sight unseen within green building projects.

In an applied setting, certified lumber does not reduce energy usage, make the building more efficient, or reduce harmful emissions. Its greenness lies in the guarantee that it comes from sustainably managed professional forests. By using it, you can earn points or credit within most green building programs, add substance to your marketing message, and feel good that you are not contributing to rainforest depletion, unfair trade practices, or the complete disregard for natural resources and virgin ecosystems.

Within a larger green building product, it gives the builder another bullet point and line item of environmental friendliness.

“We’ve spent a lot of time in the last six months making the market more aware of SFI and the benefits that the standard offers in the marketplace,” says SFI president and CEO Kathy Abusow. “Historically, SFI did not do any outreach, and a lot has changed – we became independent from the APA, we revamped our standard in 2005, and we instituted a chain-of-custody program. We want to put the word out on those successes, so we’re meeting with customers, hitting the trade shows, and making a huge push on product labeling.”

At FSC, U.S. region president Corey Brinkema has felt the market heat. “SFI is spending a considerable amount of money to create some consumer demand for its product and do what it needs to do to get credibility in the marketplace,” Brinkema says.

Brinkema counters that his organization’s partnerships have led to the appearance of the FSC moniker on Victoria’s Secret, Crate & Barrel, and Williams-Sonoma catalogs as well as the last Harry Potter book. “All of a sudden, we have the eyeballs of the American public on our brand,” he says.

Whether or not co-branding and industry outreach can conjure a dominant market share in the building materials sector remains to be seen. Collectively, SFI and FSC already account for the lion’s share of certified wood available in the United States; certified wood overall makes up about 10% of U.S. wood supplies. According to data prepared for the U.S. Green Building Council by the Yale School of Forestry, SFI-certified producers account for approximately 50% of U.S. solid wood products and 85% of U.S. panel production, while FSC remains the de facto certification body for wood not originating in North America.

Naturally, competing certifiers would have you believe their standard is the best, the largest, the fastest growing, the most preferable, the greenest. But navigating through each program’s certification criteria doesn’t reveal a clear-cut winner, even for the experts.

“All of the programs – FSC, SFI, the American Tree Farm System, the PEFC system – if you look at what happens on the ground, are today remarkably the same,” says Jim Bowyer, professor emeritus at the University of Minnesota Department of Bioproducts and Bioprocess Engineering and an elected fellow of the International Academy of Wood Science, which does not endorse any particular certification standard.

“I hear that argument all the time, that it is Coke vs. Pepsi,” says Brinkema. “And I think that PEFC and the related standards of SFI and CSA would have you believe that all standards are equal. But the reality is that they could not be further apart.”

Culling the Stock

But are they? Comparative matrixes prepared by both Yale and the independent Forest Certification Resource Center show that all standards share active oversight and balanced participation from academics, industry stakeholders, and members of the conservation and environmental community.

The criteria of CSA, FSC, and SFI all touch on a broad range of forest science, environmental, social, and economic issues; are addressed by independent third-party audits; and are subject to public review. All prohibit using illegally harvested wood, and all offer chain-of-custody certification that verifies to the end users that the product they hold has been segregated from noncertified wood throughout the harvest, milling, and distribution processes. Certifiers also offer “percentage” or “mixed” chain-of-custody standards that allow for co-mingling certified and noncertified woods.

Perhaps more relevant to builders is a realization that certified lumber is ultimately just wood. “Certification does nothing to verify the durability and the strength of the lumber,” says Russell Richardson, director of industrial markets for Kenner, La. – based Southern Pine Council, which has CSA-, FSC-, and SFI-allied members but does not endorse any one certification body. “Don’t forget about the structural attributes and aesthetics of your lumber. You want wood that looks good, is durable, and is environmentally friendly.”

One core argument for certified lumber is that wood, in and of itself, is an environmentally responsible material. Within a full life-cycle assessment, wood is renewable, consumes atmospheric carbon during growth, requires comparatively little energy for harvest and manufacturing than nonorganic building materials, and is biodegradable and recyclable. Bowyer even argues that any wood professionally produced in the U.S. and Canada has already met regulations that put it within the top 5% of environmentally sustainable lumber on a global scale.

But to be sure, and to earn points for green building programs or up-sell the eco-friendliness of your product to your clients, you’ll need the appropriate product labeling.

“Definitely one of the things driving an increase in demand for certified lumber is the ability for builders to highlight its environmentally friendliness to their homeowner customers,” says Paul Novack, a product specialist for Green Depot, a green building products supplier. “With that demand, costs have come down and availability has gone up.”

To get the brand, expect in general to pay a price premium of up to 5%. Additionally, a host of products, from floor joists to replacement windows to flooring and cabinetry, are now manufactured using certified wood. Expect the typical low percentage price premium and the corresponding prevalence of the certification brand on the more wood-heavy products, like flooring.

In some categories, such as windows, you may not pay a premium at all and might even have to search a spec manual to see the certification brand.

One thing is for sure: With The Home Depot, Lowe’s, Menards, and most independent retailers now carrying a range of certified lumber products, availability should not be an issue. Ultimately, you just have to choose where your brand loyalty lies.

This article was originally published by Remodelling Magazine.

By Katy Tomasulo

A report released by research firm The Freedonia Group estimates the U.S. market for green building materials will exceed $80 billion by 2013, with a predicted 7.2% annual increase from $57 billion in 2008. Much of the growth, however, will be driven primarily by the overall recovery of the residential market, according to a statement.

The report states that FSC-certified lumber and wood panels will be the fastest-growing segment of the green products market, more than tripling in the next four years. Water-efficient and energy-efficient fixtures will undergo double-digit growth. These three categories, however, represent small shares of the market.

Green floor coverings, which include Green Label Plus-certified carpet and flooring made from rapidly renewable materials, has a slower anticipated growth rate of 5.6% annually, but maintains the largest share of the green building products market overall. Another large category, concrete made from recycled materials, is expected to grow 8.4% per year.

Windows will grow at a significantly faster pace – 14% annually – compared to the category’s previous five years’ growth of 0.5% annually.

Overall, the green building materials market grew 45% between 2003 and 2008, from $39.2 billion.

This article was originally published by EcoHome magazine.